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Can you do radon mitigation yourself?

By Radon411 Editorial TeamUpdated How we research

Short answer

You can install a radon system yourself, but a trained contractor is recommended, because lowering high radon levels takes technical knowledge and special skills, and done wrong it can even raise the level. If you go ahead, first contact your state radon office, and test after the system is running.

Next step: a certified professional designs and installs the fix. Find a mitigation professional

A radon system looks simple: a pipe and a fan. The decisions behind it are what make it work: how many suction points, where they go, and which openings are sealed depend on how air moves under the slab and on the strength of the radon source.

The installation also has rules. The exhaust must vent above the roof and 10 feet or more above the ground, the fan must not sit in or below a livable area, wiring must follow local codes, and an active system needs a warning device. Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified or registered.

Some do-it-yourself steps do not replace a system: sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon significantly or consistently, and opening windows is only temporary.

What to do next: confirm the level with a followup test, contact your state radon office about local rules and training, and get quotes from certified professionals. After any system is installed, test again within 30 days.

Can you fix radon yourself?

You can, but it is not the recommended route. Lowering high radon levels requires technical knowledge and special skills, so the advice is to use a contractor trained to fix radon problems. If you are considering doing it yourself, first contact your state radon office for guidance and assistance, and ask it about appropriate training courses.

Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified or registered, so check your state's rules before any work. See state radon programs.

What a radon system involves

A soil suction system looks simple: a pipe and a fan. The work is in the decisions. The number and location of suction pipes depend on how easily air moves under the slab and on the strength of the radon source; often a single suction point is enough, but a contractor learns that from inspection, diagnostic tests or experience.

Cross-section of a house with a sub-slab depressurization system: soil gas drawn from beneath the slab into a suction point, up a vent pipe, through a fan outside the living space and out above the roofline.
Read this figure as text
Sub-slab depressurization system in a house cross-sectionGround levelLiving spaceBasement12345
  1. Soil gas drawn from beneath the slab
  2. Suction point through the slab
  3. Vent pipe
  4. Fan, outside the living space
  5. Discharge above the roofline
A sub-slab depressurization system: a suction point, a vent pipe and a fan.

One diagnostic test uses a vacuum cleaner and chemical smoke to see how easily air moves from one point to another under the foundation. See how mitigation systems work.

Rules a system must meet

A radon system is not just a fan in a pipe. The installation has requirements that protect the household, and a do-it-yourself system has to meet them too.

Installation requirements for an active radon system
RequirementWhat it says
Exhaust heightSoil suction exhaust must vent above the roof surface and 10 feet or more above the ground
Fan locationThe exhaust fan must not be in or below a livable area
WiringElectrical connections must follow local electrical codes
Warning deviceMust alert you if the system stops working properly
LabelingThe system must be clearly labeled
StandardASTM E2121, the practice for installing systems in existing low-rise homes

A contractor may also check for backdrafting of combustion appliances, a concern with some options.

Do-it-yourself steps that fall short

Common do-it-yourself fixes and their limits
StepThe limit
Sealing cracks aloneNot recommended on its own: by itself, sealing has not been shown to lower radon significantly or consistently
Sealing as part of a systemA basic part of most approaches; it makes the system more effective and cost-efficient
Opening windowsOnly temporary: radon most often returns to previous values within about 12 hours of closing up

Sealing alone falls short partly because it is hard to find and permanently seal every place radon enters, and normal settling of a home opens new entry routes and reopens old ones. See how to seal cracks in a basement floor.

Proving it worked

Whoever does the work, the proof is a test. A test should be done within 30 days of installation, with the fan running continuously, and an independent follow-up measurement is recommended. Conducting the measurement yourself or having an independent tester do it avoids a conflict of interest.

Timeline after a radon mitigation system is installed: the fan runs continuously, test no sooner than 24 hours and within 30 days, then retest at least every two years.
Read this figure as text

  1. Day of installation

    The system goes in

    Keep the fan running at all times: it must run continuously for the system to work correctly.

  2. No sooner than 24 hours

    Earliest post-mitigation test

    Test no sooner than 24 hours after your system is in operation with the fan on, if it has one.

  3. Within 30 days

    Post-mitigation test done

    A two- to seven-day measurement is recommended, and EPA recommends an independent follow-up radon measurement as well as any test the contractor runs.

  4. At least every two years

    Retest

    Retest your home at least every two years to be sure radon levels remain low.

Test conditions: Windows and doors must be closed 12 hours before and during the test, except for normal entry and exit. Not drawn to scale.

After a remodel. After you remodel, retest in the lowest lived-in area to make sure the construction did not reduce the effectiveness of the radon reduction system.

Testing after a radon system goes in: the first check, then regular retests.

Questions about do-it-yourself radon mitigation

Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?

You can, but a trained contractor is recommended. First contact your state radon office for guidance, rules and training courses.

Is DIY radon mitigation dangerous?

Without the proper equipment or knowledge, you could increase your radon level or create other hazards and costs.

Can I just seal the cracks myself?

Sealing alone is not recommended, because it has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. It helps as part of a system.

Do I need a permit or license for radon mitigation?

Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified or registered, and wiring must follow local electrical codes. Check with your state radon office.

How do I find a certified radon mitigator?

Contact your state radon program, or the two national proficiency programs, the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) and the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). See find a mitigation professional.

What is the most common radon mitigation method?

A vent pipe and fan that pulls radon from beneath the house and vents it outside, known as soil suction. It does not require major changes to the home.

How do I know my DIY system works?

Test within 30 days of installation, with the fan running, and consider an independent follow-up measurement.

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